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What Is Queer Food?: How We Served a Revolution
What Is Queer Food?: How We Served a Revolution | John Birdsall
4 posts | 1 read | 1 reading | 2 to read
A celebrated culinary writers expansive, audacious excavation of the roots of modern queer identity and food culture. The food on our plates has long been designed, twisted, and elevated by queer hands. Piecing together a dazzling mosaic of queer lives, spaces, and meals, beloved food writer John Birdsall unfolds the complex story of how, through times of fear and persecution, queer people used food to express joy and build communityand ended up changing the shape of the table for everyone. Tracing the evolution of queer food from the early decades of the twentieth century through the LGBTQ civil rights movement of post-Stonewall liberation and the devastation of AIDS, Birdsall fills the gaps between past and present. He channels the twin forces of criticism and cultural history to propel readers into the kitchens, restaurants, swirling party houses, and buzzing interior lives of James Baldwin, Alice B. Toklas, Truman Capote, Esther Eng, and others who left an indelible mark on the culinary world from the margins. Queer food, as Birdsall brilliantly reveals, is quiche and Champagne eleganza at Sunday brunch and joyous lesbian potlucks in the bunker world of Cold War homophobic purges. Its paper chicken for the gender-rebel divas of Chinese opera in San Francisco, Richard Olneys ecstatic salade compose, and Rainbow Ice-Box Cake from Ernest Matthew Micklers White Trash Cooking. Its the intention surrounding a meal, the circumstances behind it, the people gathered around the table. With cinematic verve and delicious prose, What Is Queer Food? is a monumental work: a testament to foods essential link to modern queerness that reveals how, like fashion or pop music, cooking and eating have become a crucial language of LGBTQ+ identity. By reframing our understanding of both food and queerness, it opens the door for courageous reckoning and boundless conversation.
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review
Robotswithpersonality
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Mehso-so

There are some books, usually memoirs, that I come to the conclusion were of more benefit to the writer than the reader. This is obviously a subjective opinion, and Birdsall's shared personal moments make up only a small proportion of this book, but his personal voice, while it enlivens the text, often feels stronger than the connections made on the page. 1/?

Robotswithpersonality 2/? I can see the premise and the reasoning for the formatting, divided into chronological sections, moving from a time when queer lives had to be hidden, subtextual, to a time when being queer was/is still a matter of fighting for recognition and respect, underlined by the AIDS epidemic, and within those sections in order to create a more dynaicm reading, dashing back and forth between interconnected people, 18h
Robotswithpersonality 3/? following the thread of a few individuals from their beginnings to their strongest connection between queer identity and food.
It's perhaps unfair to see this text as fragmented and tangential, because the tragedy of queer history is how much was hidden or destroyed. But it's an easier read to go along with when you consider it one person's journey through recounting figures in queer history and nothing moments when they connected to food.
18h
Robotswithpersonality 4/? It's perhaps unfair to see this text as fragmented and tangential, because the tragedy of queer history is how much was hidden or destroyed. But it's an easier read to go along with when you consider it one person's journey through recounting figures in queer history and nothing moments when they connected to food. There are times, featuring cooks, bakers, restaurateurs, cookbook makers, when the connections become more salient, 18h
Robotswithpersonality 5/? but overall my impression is that the book's title has a question mark for a reason, that the epilogue leaves it up to the reader to determine what in particular queer food is as : “any dish that has sustained queer connection; that has nourished, comforted, or charmed us; has supported the old ongoing battle to define ourselves- those foods have been a part of a process of collective recognition.“ 18h
Robotswithpersonality 6/6 If you want a book bursting with both queer joy and pathos, and with a love of food and sharing that love, it's worth a read.

⚠️Homophobia, racism, xenophobia
18h
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Robotswithpersonality
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“Food is...a way of keeping..everyone you care about...alive...Food is an act of figuring out where you live...intention that queers it.“

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Robotswithpersonality
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Queer history: history of subversion for self-preservation vs. history of erasure. 😔

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blurb
Lindy
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Did some #audiobaking this morning: Raspberry Coconut Slice. Recipe courtesy of the mother of my friend Robyn in Brisbane. Tasty results reminiscent of upscale iced vovos. 😄

kspenmoll Sounds heavenly! 1mo
Lindy @kspenmoll Thanks. I had to stop the audio for a bit while I did math (substituting for self-raising flour). 😅 1mo
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