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Combat-Ready Kitchen
Combat-Ready Kitchen: How the U.S. Military Shapes the Way You Eat | Anastacia Marx de Salcedo
5 posts | 1 read | 8 to read
Americans eat more processed foods than anyone else in the world. We also spend more on military research. These two seemingly unrelated facts are inextricably linked. If you ever wondered how ready-to-eat foods infiltrated your kitchen, youll love this entertaining romp through the secret military history of practically everything you buy at the supermarket. In a nondescript Boston suburb, in a handful of low buildings buffered by trees and a lake, a group of men and women spend their days researching, testing, tasting, and producing the foods that form the bedrock of the American diet. If you stumbled into the facility, you might think the technicians dressed in lab coats and the shiny kitchen equipment belonged to one of the giant food conglomerates responsible for your favorite brand of frozen pizza or microwavable breakfast burritos. So youd be surprised to learn that youve just entered the U.S. Army Natick Soldier Systems Center, ground zero for the processed food industry. Ever since Napoleon, armies have sought better ways to preserve, store, and transport food for battle. As part of this quest, although most people dont realize it, the U.S. military spearheaded the invention of energy bars, restructured meat, extended-life bread, instant coffee, and much more. But theres been an insidious mission creep: because the military enlisted industryhuge corporations such as ADM, ConAgra, General Mills, Hershey, Hormel, Mars, Nabisco, Reynolds, Smithfield, Swift, Tyson, and Unileverto help develop and manufacture food for soldiers on the front line, over the years combat rations, or the key technologies used in engineering them, have ended up dominating grocery store shelves and refrigerator cases. TV dinners, the cheese powder in snack foods, cling wrap . . . The list is almost endless. Now food writer Anastacia Marx de Salcedo scrutinizes the world of processed food and its long relationship with the militaryunveiling the twists, turns, successes, failures, and products that have found their way from the armed forces and contractors laboratories into our kitchens. In developing these rations, the army was looking for some of the very same qualities as we do in our hectic, fast-paced twenty-first-century lives: portability, ease of preparation, extended shelf life at room temperature, affordability, and appeal to even the least adventurous eaters. In other words, the military has us chowing down like special ops. What is the effect of such a diet, eatenas it is by soldiers and most consumersday in and day out, year after year? We dont really know. Were the guinea pigs in a giant public health experiment, one in which science and technology, at the beck and call of the military, have taken over our kitchens. From the Hardcover edition.
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Lindy
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Lots of interesting information in this #audiobook, although I wasn‘t enamoured of narrator CSE Cooney‘s somewhat smug tone. The author surprised me with this passage near the end of the book: “I suddenly had more tolerance for takeout and ready to serve food. We were tired. We were overstretched. Something had to give, and that something was dinner. And you know what? Good riddance. Cooking […] is a dying art.” 😕

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Lindy
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There‘s a watered-down combat ration lurking in practically every bag, box, can, bottle, jar and carton we buy. This food, originally designed for soldiers, is bad for our health and the health of our children, at least when consumed, as do warriors and most of the rest of us, day in, day out, year after year.

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Lindy
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[Hershey] was able to make a chocolate candy that was affordable for all, and, with its masculine rectangle, far less threatening to the male ego than the bosomy bonbons of yore.

MaleficentBookDragon 😂 yet sad. 6y
cathysaid It is now my goal to use the phrase "bosomy bonbons" in conversation this week. ? 6y
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Lindy @cathysaid Ha! I love that plan. 👍 6y
Smangela 😂😂😂😂 6y
LeahBergen Bosomy bonbons!! That‘s the best! 😂😂 6y
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Lindy
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Modern grocery store bread was developed to feed US soldiers. “By manipulating the enzymes in the dough, the bread bakes faster and is much lighter than it was before the war. All of these changes led an Army contractor to say that the carbohydrate loaf produced was a ‘non-staling bread-like product.‘”

AmyG When I was a kid we went with our class to the Wonder Bread Factory. Memories 6y
saresmoore You‘re killing me. 6y
Lindy @saresmoore Supermarket bread like this apparently doesn‘t pass the law in France to be labelled as bread, because the dough rises for less than an hour. I must have a closer look at grocery store shelves next time I‘m in Paris. 😉 6y
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Lindy @AmyG I bet it smelled divine! 6y
saresmoore Don‘t even get me started on American “cheese”. Even the U.S. gov‘t knows it‘s not cheese! It can‘t be too hard to get a work visa in France, right? 😆😫 6y
LeahBergen 🤢 6y
Lindy @saresmoore Oh yes, the description in this book of the making of American cheese-food is 😱 6y
LibrarianRyan If you take the Coors tour the beer brewer actually smells like fresh baked bread. 6y
AmyG Hahahaha...it did @Lindy and we each got to take home a mini loaf of bread in the wonder package. (edited) 6y
Lindy @LibrarianRyan Mmmm. I love the yeasty/malty smell of beer brewing. 6y
batsy This is fascinating! I had no idea. 6y
Tonton Wonder air bread...can‘t eat it 6y
Lindy @Tonton Me neither. White glue. 6y
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Lindy
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There's another equally important, if not more important, reason to lace our breakfast cereal, bread, lunch meat, chips, soups, heat-and-serve meals, and cookies with salt and sugar. Our food is geriatric, and these two common chemicals do an ace job at mummifying and bestowing false youth—bright colors, firm shapes, soft textures—to edibles way past their prime.

(Photo: www.storenvy.com/products/19176748-french-bread-slippers )

marianese this sounds amazing! 6y
Lindy @marianese It‘s interesting, yes, although I‘m not crazy about the audiobook narrator (CSE Cooney), so I‘m listening just a chapter at a time, interspersed with other audio. It‘s over 9 hours long. 6y
Lindy @Avanders See my comment above to Marian regarding narrator Cooney. I‘ve been trying to put my finger on what it is that I don‘t like about her narration style. I think it‘s maybe a tone of condescension, in addition to over-emphasis on certain words. 6y
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claffy_reads I really enjoyed Salt Sugar Fat, which also discusses these topics. An excellent food science book. 6y
saresmoore Eeeeewww 6y
Avanders 🤔 now I want to listen to this book to see if she narrates it the same way 😆 In Tails You Lose it was a lack of variation in characters and a weird lisp (?) that was pronounced and distracting.. I wasn't able to listen further to see if there were other issues like perhaps condescension or emphasis issues 😁 6y
Lindy @callielafleur I enjoyed Salt Sugar Fat too. This one covers broader issues of food processing and the history of food preservation. 6y
claffy_reads @Lindy I'll check this one out! 6y
Lindy @saresmoore Your reaction gave me a chuckle. I needed that (because I‘m still in the early stages of healing from surgery). 😊 6y
marianese @Lindy Pretty long! 6y
Lindy @Avanders It‘s available in Hoopla, if your library provides access to that database. 6y
Avanders It does! I'll have to check it out! ☺️ 6y
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