⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️💫 Picked this up from an Audible sale a few months ago and really liked it. This is a memoir told through a lifetime of surfing exploits, from first rides in childhood through a multi-year quest through the South Pacific, apartheid South Africa, and back to San Francisco and New York. This could have been insufferable, but was told from a point of emotional maturity and using excellent writing.